My last full day started early with a hot air balloon ride over the Valley of the Kings. Although due to the wind it was actually a hot air balloon ride over the Valley of the Nobles. I'd been a bit nervous about it, especially as my travel insurance didn't cover me for it, but the price of the ticket included insurance so I was brave.
First time I'd ever done it and was great - so peaceful when the burner wasn't going. And the views were stupendous. It is so clear where the irrigation from the Nile stops and the desert just starts. Such an amazing landscape.
Then it was off to the Valley of the Kings - of which there are no photos as you aren't allowed to even take your cameras into the site, let alone into any of the tombs. My one regret is that I didn't go into King Tut's tomb - you needed a separate ticket, and our guide was pretty dismissive about it. In retrospect I should have just gone for it. Next time! These tombs were incredible though - to see the paintings and the hieroglyphs in full colour was stunning. And by now, we were starting to recognise quite a few of the symbols so we almost felt like we could read bits of them! Well sort of...
The last temple area visited was Deir el-Bahri. Which was also the site of the Luxor massacre back in 1997. I think by then I had reached temple saturation - it was really hot, we were tired, and it was starting to feel like yet another temple. Quite scary though when you realise that there really isn't anywhere to hide there if someone was to start shooting. Very sobering.
But it was a relief to get back to the hotel, have lunch and a beer and then devote myself to an afternoon practicing my bartering skills in the souk :-). A lovely wind down to what was a fantastic holiday...
Showing posts with label Holidays - 2009. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Holidays - 2009. Show all posts
Sunday, December 27, 2009
Saturday, December 26, 2009
Boxing Day - Karnak Temple
On Boxing Day we had to sadly leave our felucca's and head off to Luxor - doubly sad for some of us as it meant we were rapidly approaching the end of our trip :-(.
In the afternoon we headed off to Karnak Temple which I absolutely loved. This was one of the real highlights for me as the area was just so huge, and there was so much to see and take in. For those readers who have been to London and remember 'Cleopatra's Needle' on the Thames - that was taken from Karnak and I saw the spot where it should have been...
Also fascinating was seeing graffiti being pointed out 3-4 metres above us, and being told that when it was written that was where the sand had come up to... And to still be able to see the colours of some of the painting that was down thousands of years ago - it was just phenomenal. Hard to describe really - but I thought it was amazing.
We took caleshes (horse drawn carriages) from the hotel to Karnak - entertaining ride as some of the drivers had a pretty loose approach to obeying the traffic signals!
In the afternoon we headed off to Karnak Temple which I absolutely loved. This was one of the real highlights for me as the area was just so huge, and there was so much to see and take in. For those readers who have been to London and remember 'Cleopatra's Needle' on the Thames - that was taken from Karnak and I saw the spot where it should have been...
Also fascinating was seeing graffiti being pointed out 3-4 metres above us, and being told that when it was written that was where the sand had come up to... And to still be able to see the colours of some of the painting that was down thousands of years ago - it was just phenomenal. Hard to describe really - but I thought it was amazing.
We took caleshes (horse drawn carriages) from the hotel to Karnak - entertaining ride as some of the drivers had a pretty loose approach to obeying the traffic signals!
Thursday, December 24, 2009
Scenic scrabble, Christmas eve
Scenic scrabble, Christmas eve
Originally uploaded by Megan Shields.
Doesn't get much better than this...
Wednesday, December 23, 2009
Cruising on the felucca
The next three days were spent sailing down the Nile on a felucca. Brilliant. Although a bit colder than we were expecting at times - certainly wasn't like sunbathing on the gulet in Turkey!
But it was fantastic - each day spent tacking from side to side across the Nile, or using the current when there was no wind. At night we'd pitch up, dig the loo (well Mohammed the guide would...), and Ali and Islam would cook our dinner.
Our felucca was the 'dining one' which meant that everyone came and visited three times a day to get fed, so we didn't need to make any effort to see people. It also meant that we lived amongst their spillage and crumbs, but it was a small price to pay :-).
These three days were so chilled out - lying around reading, chatting, risking a beer if we knew a loo stop was coming up - I loved it. Christmas eve we had a bit of a 'party' - open fire, few drinks, bit of singing and dancing (the felucca guys looked very bored everytime we churned out yet another dirgish xmas carol!), but christmas day itself was just another day on the boat. Loved the lack of xmas - it felt a million miles away. We did stop off at Edfu Temple on Xmas day - second largest in Egypt next to Karnak and also a stop for the gin palaces that also cruise up and down the Nile. The kids were pretty full on - constantly trying to sell something or asking for pens.
But it was fantastic - each day spent tacking from side to side across the Nile, or using the current when there was no wind. At night we'd pitch up, dig the loo (well Mohammed the guide would...), and Ali and Islam would cook our dinner.
Our felucca was the 'dining one' which meant that everyone came and visited three times a day to get fed, so we didn't need to make any effort to see people. It also meant that we lived amongst their spillage and crumbs, but it was a small price to pay :-).
These three days were so chilled out - lying around reading, chatting, risking a beer if we knew a loo stop was coming up - I loved it. Christmas eve we had a bit of a 'party' - open fire, few drinks, bit of singing and dancing (the felucca guys looked very bored everytime we churned out yet another dirgish xmas carol!), but christmas day itself was just another day on the boat. Loved the lack of xmas - it felt a million miles away. We did stop off at Edfu Temple on Xmas day - second largest in Egypt next to Karnak and also a stop for the gin palaces that also cruise up and down the Nile. The kids were pretty full on - constantly trying to sell something or asking for pens.
Tuesday, December 22, 2009
Abu Simbel
This was a crazy early start - we had to get up at 2.30 for a 3am departure to meet the armed convoy to leave at 4.15am... I could have flown for £70 but I decided to save the money and just got the coach. Once we were up it wasn't too bad...
Abu Simbel was absolutely amazing. Everyone I know who had been to Egypt had said it was a must see, and that is true. I wasn't disappointed - the first sight of them is incredible. Part of Ramses II's legacy, they were fascinating. His wives included below his knees, the fact that they were built so that the sun highlights the figures inside on two days each year (very Indiana Jones!), and the detail inside just all added to how magical they were. Then when you consider that they were moved when the Aswan Dam was built so they weren't submerged is also staggering. If you look carefully inside you can see the seams where they rebuilt it, but otherwise you would have no idea that it wasn't in its original spot.
Abu Simbel was absolutely amazing. Everyone I know who had been to Egypt had said it was a must see, and that is true. I wasn't disappointed - the first sight of them is incredible. Part of Ramses II's legacy, they were fascinating. His wives included below his knees, the fact that they were built so that the sun highlights the figures inside on two days each year (very Indiana Jones!), and the detail inside just all added to how magical they were. Then when you consider that they were moved when the Aswan Dam was built so they weren't submerged is also staggering. If you look carefully inside you can see the seams where they rebuilt it, but otherwise you would have no idea that it wasn't in its original spot.
Monday, December 21, 2009
Aswan and Philae Temple
Once we'd checked in at the hotel in Aswan we headed off to Philae Temple.
Moved so it wasn't drowned in the creation of the Aswan Dam, this temple was lovely. Quite a Greek feel, as they added to it and such a beautiful setting. Our guide told us the story behind Osiris and Isis by giving us all different characters in the story - made it a bit more real, and we continued the characters for the rest of the week :-). I was disappointed at Abu Simbel to be given the role of Nefertiti (queen of upper and lower Egypt), as opposed to Nefertari... (queen of all the lands).
We had the rest of the day free after Philae. A few of us ventured out to purchase our own 'falafel sandwich' for lunch. We ate in a cafe that we all agreed we wouldn't have eaten in in the UK (not the cleanest place!), and once we'd established that we didn't want salad in our falafel (can make you ill - salad is washed in the local water which is best to avoid), we ended up with falafel with chips in it - but it was tasty and we were starving! Then I wandered around the souk with a friend from the group and soon established that I am no good at bartering - but did end with some nice cushion covers!
In the evening we took a boat across the Nile to visit a Nubian village where the lifestyle is still very traditional, and where we then went for a traditional Nubian meal. I found it odd being invited to look around people's houses, so didn't enjoy it that much - although the trip on the boat was great.
Moved so it wasn't drowned in the creation of the Aswan Dam, this temple was lovely. Quite a Greek feel, as they added to it and such a beautiful setting. Our guide told us the story behind Osiris and Isis by giving us all different characters in the story - made it a bit more real, and we continued the characters for the rest of the week :-). I was disappointed at Abu Simbel to be given the role of Nefertiti (queen of upper and lower Egypt), as opposed to Nefertari... (queen of all the lands).
We had the rest of the day free after Philae. A few of us ventured out to purchase our own 'falafel sandwich' for lunch. We ate in a cafe that we all agreed we wouldn't have eaten in in the UK (not the cleanest place!), and once we'd established that we didn't want salad in our falafel (can make you ill - salad is washed in the local water which is best to avoid), we ended up with falafel with chips in it - but it was tasty and we were starving! Then I wandered around the souk with a friend from the group and soon established that I am no good at bartering - but did end with some nice cushion covers!
In the evening we took a boat across the Nile to visit a Nubian village where the lifestyle is still very traditional, and where we then went for a traditional Nubian meal. I found it odd being invited to look around people's houses, so didn't enjoy it that much - although the trip on the boat was great.
Sunday, December 20, 2009
Me and the pyramids
Me and the pyramids
Originally uploaded by Megan Shields.
Proof I was there - proudly wearing my NZ t-shirt!
A busy first day!
Sat Dec 19th was spent travelling to Cairo - about a 5 hour flight from London, and we arrived late. By the time we'd got from the airport to the hotel and checked in etc, it was pretty much time for bed.
Sunday was a late start (as it turned out) of 9am. First part of the morning was spent doing the usual tour admin, then it was off to see the pyramids at Giza. It was completely surreal - to have been in London one day, to then be looking at the pyramids the next day. And as Cairo has expanded, they really aren't far out of town at all - town on one side, then desert on the other. We were too late to go into the Great Pyramid of Cheops, but I did go into the slightly smaller one of Chephren - down and up a steep path, bent double (not to be recommended for those with a bad back!). Nothing to see inside, but it was one of those things that had to be done!
I also went into the Solar Barque Museum - amazing. A cedar wood boat from the time which may have been used to convey the mummy of the Pharoah across the Nile to the valley temple. The barque's were then buried around the pyramid to provide transport for the Pharoah to the next world. This boat was discovered in 1954 and recreated - but the wood is original.
After the Pyramids it was down the hill to check out the Sphinx. Again it was the surreal thing of actually being there and seeing it. Its a bit smaller than I was expecting - and I couldn't help but think of the Asterix and Obelix story where Obelix knocks the nose off... :-).
After a quick stop at a Papyrus institute and a 'falafel sandwich' (first of many!) we headed off to the Eygptian Museum. This was fascinating as it houses most of the treasures from King Tut's tomb. Just mind blowing stuff what was in there - and he wasn't even a particularly important Pharoah. Makes you wonder what someone like Ramses II had in his tomb - he ruled for 66 years. But the museum itself felt very dark and dusty and old fashioned. One of the arguments for the British Museum not returning the Rosetta Stone is that Egypt doesn't have anywhere appropriate to store it, and having visited that museum I can see the argument. They won't get it back until they open their new museum I don't think.
From the museum we caught an overnight train from Cairo down to Aswan - first class sleeper! But not exactly Orient Express first class :-).
Sunday was a late start (as it turned out) of 9am. First part of the morning was spent doing the usual tour admin, then it was off to see the pyramids at Giza. It was completely surreal - to have been in London one day, to then be looking at the pyramids the next day. And as Cairo has expanded, they really aren't far out of town at all - town on one side, then desert on the other. We were too late to go into the Great Pyramid of Cheops, but I did go into the slightly smaller one of Chephren - down and up a steep path, bent double (not to be recommended for those with a bad back!). Nothing to see inside, but it was one of those things that had to be done!
I also went into the Solar Barque Museum - amazing. A cedar wood boat from the time which may have been used to convey the mummy of the Pharoah across the Nile to the valley temple. The barque's were then buried around the pyramid to provide transport for the Pharoah to the next world. This boat was discovered in 1954 and recreated - but the wood is original.
After the Pyramids it was down the hill to check out the Sphinx. Again it was the surreal thing of actually being there and seeing it. Its a bit smaller than I was expecting - and I couldn't help but think of the Asterix and Obelix story where Obelix knocks the nose off... :-).
After a quick stop at a Papyrus institute and a 'falafel sandwich' (first of many!) we headed off to the Eygptian Museum. This was fascinating as it houses most of the treasures from King Tut's tomb. Just mind blowing stuff what was in there - and he wasn't even a particularly important Pharoah. Makes you wonder what someone like Ramses II had in his tomb - he ruled for 66 years. But the museum itself felt very dark and dusty and old fashioned. One of the arguments for the British Museum not returning the Rosetta Stone is that Egypt doesn't have anywhere appropriate to store it, and having visited that museum I can see the argument. They won't get it back until they open their new museum I don't think.
From the museum we caught an overnight train from Cairo down to Aswan - first class sleeper! But not exactly Orient Express first class :-).
Monday, October 05, 2009
Tripping around Turkey - complete
So my updates are complete - now I need to start getting my photos up on Flickr... that might take a while too!
Well I am now back from the most wonderful trip to Turkey... Updates below (but I might not get it all updated tonight). Once I've done my blog I'll upload my many photos to Flickr. But any people out in the ether who are also on Facebook can see some of them already from my profile there.
I really liked Turkey - will definitely be taking a trip back there...
Overall highlights:
Well I am now back from the most wonderful trip to Turkey... Updates below (but I might not get it all updated tonight). Once I've done my blog I'll upload my many photos to Flickr. But any people out in the ether who are also on Facebook can see some of them already from my profile there.
I really liked Turkey - will definitely be taking a trip back there...
Overall highlights:
- The helpfulness and friendliness of the Turkish people. It really was so lovely - and made travelling around so much easier
- The food - I loved the food...
- Swimming - beautiful coast line and beautiful sea (although not terribly interesting snorkelling it has to be said)
Wednesday, September 30, 2009
And so to Olympos...
After very reluctantly getting off the boat, we headed off on another bus to make our way to Olympos. This trip just seemed to take forever - but I think we were both struggling with the shock of coming from the fab-ness of the boat to having to deal with transport and stuff again. Anyhow - by the time we got to Olympos (about 5.5 hours) we were knackered.
But oh - what bliss Olympos was! We stayed at Saban Pension and it was fantastic. The most chilled out, relaxed place I've stayed at. So again - not much to say really - we spent 3 very lazy days on the beach, and chilling out before/after dinner in the courtyard. The food was fantastic, the swimming was good, the posh sun loungers were lovely - nothing to complain about at all! Strolling through the ruins of Olympos to get to the beach...
One night we went up to the Chimaera which was seriously cool. Even coming from the volcanic NZ, I've never seen anything like this. Very odd to see flames coming straight out of the ground - and watching people blow them out and then just have them spontaneously re-ignite. Very very cool!
But oh - what bliss Olympos was! We stayed at Saban Pension and it was fantastic. The most chilled out, relaxed place I've stayed at. So again - not much to say really - we spent 3 very lazy days on the beach, and chilling out before/after dinner in the courtyard. The food was fantastic, the swimming was good, the posh sun loungers were lovely - nothing to complain about at all! Strolling through the ruins of Olympos to get to the beach...
One night we went up to the Chimaera which was seriously cool. Even coming from the volcanic NZ, I've never seen anything like this. Very odd to see flames coming straight out of the ground - and watching people blow them out and then just have them spontaneously re-ignite. Very very cool!
Saturday, September 26, 2009
Before Lunch
We did the 3 night cruise with Before Lunch - who were great. They were recommended by Lonely Planet, but Mhairi had also found an article which gave them a good write up as well. There are so many boats and companies, but I was really happy with Before Lunch.
Not much to say about this really - it literally was 4 days cruising around, swimming when we were anchored, reading, sunning, drinking when we weren't. The food was amazing, and we were really lucky with our group as well - everyone got on really well - the ages ranged from 29 - 73! Our captain (Ahmet) wasn't in to the busy spots at all, so he did a great job of taking us places that didn't have hundreds of other boats parked up which was nice.
When we went to St Nicholas' Island, while we were off exploring it, he moved the boat to the other side of the bay as there were too many around us :-).
Highlights included:
Didn't like the sandflies tho - don't know what they did to me, but I really reacted to their bites. They weren't itchy, but I would swell up for about 24 hours after being bitten. So I particularly liked the two bites I got on either side of my head... (although I think only I noticed the lumps!)
Not much to say about this really - it literally was 4 days cruising around, swimming when we were anchored, reading, sunning, drinking when we weren't. The food was amazing, and we were really lucky with our group as well - everyone got on really well - the ages ranged from 29 - 73! Our captain (Ahmet) wasn't in to the busy spots at all, so he did a great job of taking us places that didn't have hundreds of other boats parked up which was nice.
When we went to St Nicholas' Island, while we were off exploring it, he moved the boat to the other side of the bay as there were too many around us :-).
Highlights included:
- Swimming off the boat. The water was so warm and so clear
- Having nothing to do, but lie around. Fantastic
- The trading boats that would come up and sell ice-creams or Gozleme (pancakes - often with banana and chocolate - yum!)
- The food - double yum!
Didn't like the sandflies tho - don't know what they did to me, but I really reacted to their bites. They weren't itchy, but I would swell up for about 24 hours after being bitten. So I particularly liked the two bites I got on either side of my head... (although I think only I noticed the lumps!)
Friday, September 25, 2009
The village of Kayakoy
Kayakoy was amazing. Very odd to be in a village that had just been deserted - and what a crazy idea it was. Lets move the Turkish Christians to Greece and the Greek Muslims to Turkey... funnily enough that whole thing just didn't work out so well.
But it was really quite atmospheric, and as we went up at dusk it was pretty empty which added to the spookiness of it.
After strolling around the village we went to the Levissi Garden for a meal which was fantastic. A wine cellar with 12,000 bottles of wine, so we started with a bit of wine tasting, then got a guided tour of the house the restaurant was in, then we both had the most amazing lamb meals. It was so lovely!
But it was really quite atmospheric, and as we went up at dusk it was pretty empty which added to the spookiness of it.
After strolling around the village we went to the Levissi Garden for a meal which was fantastic. A wine cellar with 12,000 bottles of wine, so we started with a bit of wine tasting, then got a guided tour of the house the restaurant was in, then we both had the most amazing lamb meals. It was so lovely!
Fethiye
Friday was another bus down to Fethiye - where we were scheduled to get on our boat cruise on Saturday.
Trip down was ok - more free juice, water and cake on the bus so that was all very pleasant :-). Our instructions from where we were staying were very explicit about which company to get our transfer to their place with, so it was a tad stressful at the Otogar as another man seemed very keen for us to go with him. However Mhairi held firm and we went with the right company.
Met a slightly odd woman on the minibus who was very keen to hang out with us, but obviously wasn't keen on what we wanted to do. I think she was hoping we were going swimming, but Mhairi had already researched Kayakoy and we were keen to do that. However she wasn't happy with the accommodation so ended up leaving and we 'lost' her. We thought it was fine - although I was a bit unhappy the next morning at brekkie to be told that if I wanted coffee I would have to pay for it!
After a brief dip in their small pool, we headed off into Fethiye to take a look at our boat, get some money for the trip and then head up to Kayakoy.
Trip down was ok - more free juice, water and cake on the bus so that was all very pleasant :-). Our instructions from where we were staying were very explicit about which company to get our transfer to their place with, so it was a tad stressful at the Otogar as another man seemed very keen for us to go with him. However Mhairi held firm and we went with the right company.
Met a slightly odd woman on the minibus who was very keen to hang out with us, but obviously wasn't keen on what we wanted to do. I think she was hoping we were going swimming, but Mhairi had already researched Kayakoy and we were keen to do that. However she wasn't happy with the accommodation so ended up leaving and we 'lost' her. We thought it was fine - although I was a bit unhappy the next morning at brekkie to be told that if I wanted coffee I would have to pay for it!
After a brief dip in their small pool, we headed off into Fethiye to take a look at our boat, get some money for the trip and then head up to Kayakoy.
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