Friday, August 31, 2007
And time for a little bit of country...
Saturday Fleur and I sadly headed back to Nashville for my last night in the US of A. We stayed at the Gaylord Opry - an absolutely enormous hotel which apparently is similar to the ones in Las Vegas. It came complete with a river inside of it, (with its own little boat...), and huge gardens - all inside. It was handily situated very close to the Grand Old Opry and Opryland Mall - where I managed to spend a few more of my hard earned pennies before we headed off to the show :-).
Gaylord Opry Hotel
Gaylord Opry Hotel (1)
Originally uploaded by Megan Shields.
This is all inside - all under the roof of the Atrium.
Tuesday, August 28, 2007
Monday afternoon - time for a new state!
So on Monday afternoon my friend Fleur drove up from Bowling Green, Kentucky to pick me up. We had very vague plans - just that she would pick me up between 4.30 - 5.00 at the Museum. Fortunately it did all work and we found each other!
And so began a fab 5 days where I just hung out with Fleur, David, James and Alice. It was just lovely - bit of shopping, bit of sightseeing, lots of drinking coffee and chewing the fat - what more could you want from a holiday! Particular highlight was going to Glasgow, Kentucky (gave us much amusement!).
On Tuesday I went with Fleur to one of her bookgroups - the book was The Case of the Missing Books, and pretty universally was panned by everyone. So that isn't a recommendation from me!
Fleur and David were fantastic hosts, and it was lovely to finally meet her children! I'd seen Fleur when she was pregnant with James, but never met him until now!
And now Fleur is also blogging :-).
And so began a fab 5 days where I just hung out with Fleur, David, James and Alice. It was just lovely - bit of shopping, bit of sightseeing, lots of drinking coffee and chewing the fat - what more could you want from a holiday! Particular highlight was going to Glasgow, Kentucky (gave us much amusement!).
On Tuesday I went with Fleur to one of her bookgroups - the book was The Case of the Missing Books, and pretty universally was panned by everyone. So that isn't a recommendation from me!
Fleur and David were fantastic hosts, and it was lovely to finally meet her children! I'd seen Fleur when she was pregnant with James, but never met him until now!
And now Fleur is also blogging :-).
Fleur highland dancing in Glasgow (Kentucky)
Fleur highland dancing in Glasgow (Kentucky) (2)
Originally uploaded by Megan Shields.
Fleur bravely dancing in Glasgow...!!
Fleur and Alice in Bowling Green
Fleur and Alice in Bowling Green
Originally uploaded by Megan Shields.
Fleur and Alice - Alice wearing her new pink dress, bought on one of our shopping trips!
Monday, August 27, 2007
Bus travel US style...
On Monday morning it was up bright and early to catch my first every Greyhound bus from Memphis to Nashville.
They have a 'first come first served' approach so somewhat predictably I was worried about not getting on the bus! Being second in the queue meant I didn't have any worries on that score! But it was pretty full by the time we pulled out. Somewhat amazingly we were 40 minutes late leaving as we had waited for a connecting service to come in - not something I recall them doing in NZ!
Best bit though was sitting at the bus station in Jackson, listening to Johnny and June Cash singing Jackson :-).
Four hours later and I was in Nashville - home of country music!
They have a 'first come first served' approach so somewhat predictably I was worried about not getting on the bus! Being second in the queue meant I didn't have any worries on that score! But it was pretty full by the time we pulled out. Somewhat amazingly we were 40 minutes late leaving as we had waited for a connecting service to come in - not something I recall them doing in NZ!
Best bit though was sitting at the bus station in Jackson, listening to Johnny and June Cash singing Jackson :-).
Four hours later and I was in Nashville - home of country music!
Sing Me Back Home...
Monday afternoon was spent at the Country Music Hall of Fame and Museum - fortunately located just down the road from the bus station!
Very different from the Memphis music stories, but really interesting - lots of Johnny Cash stuff which was cool. And the Hall of Fame was really interesting to see who had made it. Nothing about alt-country tho - no Wilco or anything like that! Thats not country!! Sadly this museum didn't have quite as much music to listen to as the others I'd been to, so at times it seemed a bit static, but it was still so interesting.
Very different from the Memphis music stories, but really interesting - lots of Johnny Cash stuff which was cool. And the Hall of Fame was really interesting to see who had made it. Nothing about alt-country tho - no Wilco or anything like that! Thats not country!! Sadly this museum didn't have quite as much music to listen to as the others I'd been to, so at times it seemed a bit static, but it was still so interesting.
Sing me back home
Sing me back home
Originally uploaded by Megan Shields.
The start of the journey through country music...
Sunday, August 26, 2007
History of a different sort...
Sunday was a much slower day than Saturday - Memphis doesn't really get going early on a Sunday! I wandered around for a while but it was sooooo hot I just went and found airconditioned places that I could cool down in!
I had my second breakfast at the Arcade Restaurant - very hobbit like but it was worth it! A quintessential American cafe - where the waitress called me honey and walked around with a coffee pot topping everyone up - brilliant!
Then it was off to the National Civil Rights Museum, housed in what was the Lorraine Motel where Martin Luthor King was assassinated. Very very good - but very very dense. There was just so much to read I couldn't take it all in. I was in there at 1.45 and had to be down at the ferry by 5pm and I didn't get through it all. And then to find out at the end that the 'second half' of the museum was over the road! I just couldn't take any more in at that point - I'll have to go back another time and finish it :-).
Very moving though to be where MLK was killed, and to realise just how Memphis was really in the middle of the civil rights movement. And to have reinforced yet again just how the music was so intertwined in it all as well.
I had my second breakfast at the Arcade Restaurant - very hobbit like but it was worth it! A quintessential American cafe - where the waitress called me honey and walked around with a coffee pot topping everyone up - brilliant!
Then it was off to the National Civil Rights Museum, housed in what was the Lorraine Motel where Martin Luthor King was assassinated. Very very good - but very very dense. There was just so much to read I couldn't take it all in. I was in there at 1.45 and had to be down at the ferry by 5pm and I didn't get through it all. And then to find out at the end that the 'second half' of the museum was over the road! I just couldn't take any more in at that point - I'll have to go back another time and finish it :-).
Very moving though to be where MLK was killed, and to realise just how Memphis was really in the middle of the civil rights movement. And to have reinforced yet again just how the music was so intertwined in it all as well.
The Mighty Mississippi
Couldn't not go to Memphis and not go on the mighty Mississippi!! And on a paddle steamer of course :-).
Interesting tour guide - it would be fair to say he was on the right side of conservative... A few quite extreme statements made - especially about hard labour and the 'non' rights of criminals, and how perhaps hard labour should be brought back in... He ended the talk with the incredibly graphic retelling of the story of the Sultana tragedy - complete with descriptions of body parts floating in the river, blood and gore etc etc... Made it all a bit more entertaining!
There were also lots of dead fish around where the boats were parked up - apparently due to the lack of oxygen in the water... I wasn't convinced.
Interesting tour guide - it would be fair to say he was on the right side of conservative... A few quite extreme statements made - especially about hard labour and the 'non' rights of criminals, and how perhaps hard labour should be brought back in... He ended the talk with the incredibly graphic retelling of the story of the Sultana tragedy - complete with descriptions of body parts floating in the river, blood and gore etc etc... Made it all a bit more entertaining!
There were also lots of dead fish around where the boats were parked up - apparently due to the lack of oxygen in the water... I wasn't convinced.
Saturday, August 25, 2007
First stop - Gracelands!
Saturday started off with a stroll down to the Memphis Rock'N'Soul Museum to get their free shuttle out to Gracelands...
Which actually wasn't as over-the-top as I was expecting. Given the excesses of the life styles of the rich and famous today, the house and the decor on the whole seemed pretty low key. I did like the Jungle Room tho - its not everyone who has green shagpile carpet on their ceiling!! Plus the gold seatbelts in the Lisa Marie were a nice touch as well...
Most fascinating was the floral tributes to The King - I was there a week after 'Elvis Week' so there were still loads from all over the world. Just amazing to see them all. It was relatively quiet there tho - I did hear stories of people queuing for 48 hours the previous week to ensure they could walk past the grave on the actual anniversary of his death...
There was also some fantastic tat in the gift shops as well!! I managed to restrain myself (just...). I was really tempted my a t-shirt that read 'Elvis has left the building' but they didn't have any nice girly ones...
Which actually wasn't as over-the-top as I was expecting. Given the excesses of the life styles of the rich and famous today, the house and the decor on the whole seemed pretty low key. I did like the Jungle Room tho - its not everyone who has green shagpile carpet on their ceiling!! Plus the gold seatbelts in the Lisa Marie were a nice touch as well...
Most fascinating was the floral tributes to The King - I was there a week after 'Elvis Week' so there were still loads from all over the world. Just amazing to see them all. It was relatively quiet there tho - I did hear stories of people queuing for 48 hours the previous week to ensure they could walk past the grave on the actual anniversary of his death...
There was also some fantastic tat in the gift shops as well!! I managed to restrain myself (just...). I was really tempted my a t-shirt that read 'Elvis has left the building' but they didn't have any nice girly ones...
Next stop - Sun Studios...
After leaving Gracelands the next stop on my musical tour of Memphis was Sun Studios - home to Elvis (originally), and various other biggies - including Johnny Cash :-). This was great - really tiny. We were taken upstairs to a room full of various bits of memorabilia, and then down into the studio itself, which is still used for recording today. It really was like standing in a bit of living history.
Third stop - 'The Beat Starts Here'...
I hadn't planned to go to the Memphis Rock'N'Soul Museum but it was where I had to pick the shuttle up in the morning to get out to Gracelands and I thought it looked quite good. Then I read about it in the guidebook and it rated it so I thought I'd take a look.
I spent AGES in here. It was an audio tour (the Americans seem very fond of these...), but the best bit was all the way around the museum were 'jukeboxes' where you could enter the number of a song and listen to it - and each jukebox had about 10-15 options to choose from, so you could get a real feel for the music you had just been reading about. Very very cool.
I spent AGES in here. It was an audio tour (the Americans seem very fond of these...), but the best bit was all the way around the museum were 'jukeboxes' where you could enter the number of a song and listen to it - and each jukebox had about 10-15 options to choose from, so you could get a real feel for the music you had just been reading about. Very very cool.
Fourth stop - the real thing!
After exhausting myself doing the touristy thing all day I took myself out for dinner on Saturday night down to Beale Street. Beale Street was just fantastic - I felt quite sorry for myself in that I wasn't with anyone, as you could have a great time out there. The street is pedestrianised, with loads of the bars and clubs selling beer out on the street. There are various stages set up down alleys and in parks where people play for free, plus of course there are all of the bars which also have live music.
After dinner I just wandered around for a while listening to a band playing on a stage at the WC Handy Park. I was quite worried about going into a bar by myself, but as I was steeling myself to do that I walked past an alleyway with a stage at the end of it that had a great blues band playing there. So I got myself a beer from a street seller, parked myself on a picnic bench and listened to some great music for the next couple of hours! It just got better after they were joined by their female vocalist as well - lots of 'My man done me wrong' type of blues. Fantastic!!
And of course I was bought a beer by a random guy because I was from NZ and the 60 year old blues guitarist from the band hit on me... Great night!
After dinner I just wandered around for a while listening to a band playing on a stage at the WC Handy Park. I was quite worried about going into a bar by myself, but as I was steeling myself to do that I walked past an alleyway with a stage at the end of it that had a great blues band playing there. So I got myself a beer from a street seller, parked myself on a picnic bench and listened to some great music for the next couple of hours! It just got better after they were joined by their female vocalist as well - lots of 'My man done me wrong' type of blues. Fantastic!!
And of course I was bought a beer by a random guy because I was from NZ and the 60 year old blues guitarist from the band hit on me... Great night!
Friday, August 24, 2007
London - Chicago - Memphis...
Very long day this one - almost as bad as flying back to NZ!! Flight left at 8am, which necessitated a 4.45am taxi pick up for me - of course I had loads of time left after check in, but that suits me just fine...
I had a few hours connection in Chicago before getting my next flight to Memphis. Immigration was ok - first time I've been fingerprinted and retina scanned mind... Customs was ok - although he amused himself laughing at the fact that I described myself as a librarian (I just find it easier than trying to explain what I do...) while reading a book about stolen books... (The Case of the Missing Books by Ian Sansom - I wouldn't recommend it. It was rubbish!).
By the time I finally got to bed I'd been up about 22 hours and wasn't sure at that point if I was coming or going! But I was together enough to notice that it was much much warmer in Memphis than it had been in London :-).
I had a few hours connection in Chicago before getting my next flight to Memphis. Immigration was ok - first time I've been fingerprinted and retina scanned mind... Customs was ok - although he amused himself laughing at the fact that I described myself as a librarian (I just find it easier than trying to explain what I do...) while reading a book about stolen books... (The Case of the Missing Books by Ian Sansom - I wouldn't recommend it. It was rubbish!).
By the time I finally got to bed I'd been up about 22 hours and wasn't sure at that point if I was coming or going! But I was together enough to notice that it was much much warmer in Memphis than it had been in London :-).
Sunday, August 19, 2007
Jiggery-pokery, jumbo jets and fighter pilots..
Oh - and a 15.3 mile walk as well...
Julia and I headed off to walk from Berwick to Eastbourne on Saturday. My usual faultless train organising slipped a bit however, so for the first time had to get in a taxi to get to the start of the walk... Most unlike me!
The first half of the walk was a bit underwhelming - some nice bits, but nothing too amazing. Although it was interesting to walk past the Arlington Reservoir at the start and see that it looked quite full - couldn't help but wonder what its level had been last year - drought vs the wet summer we've had... It picked up once we'd sighted The Long Man of Wilmington however, and we did get to walk through a corn field that was very remniscent of The X-Files! We had lunch in Jevington at the Eight Bells pub - whose innkeeper in the 1780s was a well known smuggler, James Pettit - known as 'Jevington Jigg' who used to store the contraband in the pub (and the rectory....). Very nice it was too! Also the first time we saw signs about Foot & Mouth as well - including buckets of disinfectant by fields to scrub your shoes with before going across it...
Walking along the South Downs Way after lunch we missed the turn off so decided to do the long version of the walk and stretch it out to Beachy Head (which I'd never been to). As we walked towards it we were a bit suprised at how many people there were (and also why there were so many helicopters flying around...) and then realised it was the Eastbourne Airbourne show on... We'd missed the bulk of it, but did get to see the Jumbo fly past - and it is something to see a Jumbo fly low over cliffs and then fly at a 45 deg angle to skim the cliffs. Very very cool. But what was as good was the fighter plane that did fab fast things and then finished by spiralling in a corkscrew up into the clouds. Very very stylish - is it possible to have a crush on an unseen pilot??
A very long day, but a very good one! More photos on Flickr as well...
Julia and I headed off to walk from Berwick to Eastbourne on Saturday. My usual faultless train organising slipped a bit however, so for the first time had to get in a taxi to get to the start of the walk... Most unlike me!
The first half of the walk was a bit underwhelming - some nice bits, but nothing too amazing. Although it was interesting to walk past the Arlington Reservoir at the start and see that it looked quite full - couldn't help but wonder what its level had been last year - drought vs the wet summer we've had... It picked up once we'd sighted The Long Man of Wilmington however, and we did get to walk through a corn field that was very remniscent of The X-Files! We had lunch in Jevington at the Eight Bells pub - whose innkeeper in the 1780s was a well known smuggler, James Pettit - known as 'Jevington Jigg' who used to store the contraband in the pub (and the rectory....). Very nice it was too! Also the first time we saw signs about Foot & Mouth as well - including buckets of disinfectant by fields to scrub your shoes with before going across it...
Walking along the South Downs Way after lunch we missed the turn off so decided to do the long version of the walk and stretch it out to Beachy Head (which I'd never been to). As we walked towards it we were a bit suprised at how many people there were (and also why there were so many helicopters flying around...) and then realised it was the Eastbourne Airbourne show on... We'd missed the bulk of it, but did get to see the Jumbo fly past - and it is something to see a Jumbo fly low over cliffs and then fly at a 45 deg angle to skim the cliffs. Very very cool. But what was as good was the fighter plane that did fab fast things and then finished by spiralling in a corkscrew up into the clouds. Very very stylish - is it possible to have a crush on an unseen pilot??
A very long day, but a very good one! More photos on Flickr as well...
View from the South Downs
View from the South Downs
Originally uploaded by Megan Shields.
The water you can see in the distance here is the Arlington Reservoir which we passed at the start of the walk..
Friday, August 17, 2007
West Highland Way - maps
I've had a couple of requests for maps of the route - these may or may not be enough to satisfy those who are interested, but check out the links anyhow...
West Highland Way 1
West Highland Way 2
West Highland Way 1
West Highland Way 2
Wednesday, August 15, 2007
Yes - 92 miles...
Or 95 depending on what website you look at. From 28 Sept me, Julia, Craig, Owen and Kevin will be walking the long distance path the West Highland Way - from Glasgow to Fort William. Can't wait - it will be fantastic!!
And our distance walking home is anywhere between 6.5miles to 9miles - hard to tell with the Thames as it curves around so much...
And our distance walking home is anywhere between 6.5miles to 9miles - hard to tell with the Thames as it curves around so much...
Sunday, August 12, 2007
How We Are
On Sunday my 'art-i-ness' continued as I headed off to Tate Britain with Mhairi, Nicola and Jackie to see How We Are.
The original plan was to picnic in Victoria Tower Gardens (after paying homage to the statue of Emmeline Pankhurst...) en route to the gallery, but as it decided to rain shortly before said picnic we sat on a bench and ate our lunch instead. As Jackie said it was a bit like having a picnic at a bus station - although we were looking at the Thames!
The exhibition was really good, but very intense. A lot of photos to look at, quite a few small ones and lots of people to navigate around. I was exhausted by the end of the afternoon - even a reviving hot chocolate couldn't pick me up!
The original plan was to picnic in Victoria Tower Gardens (after paying homage to the statue of Emmeline Pankhurst...) en route to the gallery, but as it decided to rain shortly before said picnic we sat on a bench and ate our lunch instead. As Jackie said it was a bit like having a picnic at a bus station - although we were looking at the Thames!
The exhibition was really good, but very intense. A lot of photos to look at, quite a few small ones and lots of people to navigate around. I was exhausted by the end of the afternoon - even a reviving hot chocolate couldn't pick me up!
Friday, August 10, 2007
"Sups & Wine"
And so another meeting of the South West London 'Sups & Wine' club met... really just an excuse to eat food and drink wine of course! But this was the first one to be held at Julia's new place, and as summer seemed to have temporarily arrived in London we were able to sit outside and use her new garden furniture!
And I got to take some photos with my new phone :-)
And I got to take some photos with my new phone :-)
Wednesday, August 08, 2007
Walking home - twice now...
And so our training for the West Highland Way has begun.... Julia, Owen, me and Kevin have started walking home once a week in preparation for the 92mile marathon walk that is rapidly approaching...
Still at least this time we have a week to do it, with B&Bs booked all the way along!!
And before I tackle that I'm off to Memphis, Nashville and Bowling Green to see Fleur - yay!!
Still at least this time we have a week to do it, with B&Bs booked all the way along!!
And before I tackle that I'm off to Memphis, Nashville and Bowling Green to see Fleur - yay!!
Tuesday, August 07, 2007
Black Comedy
Mhairi and I went to see a friend from work in the play Black Comedy - very funny! Another very British 'farce' - along the lines of Lady Be Good so there seems to be a bit of a theme emerging there! Steve is a member of the South London Theatre and is about to audition for the panto Aladdin - could be my first panto!
Monday, August 06, 2007
Summer Exhibition - and a Kiwi debate...
On Saturday I met up Daphne, Pete, Olivia and Steve to go the Summer Exhibition at the Royal Academy. We had been reliably informed by another friend that there was a portrait of Daphne there so we thought that was of an excuse to go!
The exhibition is enormous - not over space, but just so many pictures, prints, photos crammed on all of the walls - it was hard to take them all in. We did find the print of Daphne - by Julian Opie - and we did all agree that it looked like her. If we'd had a spare £5,000 we could have bought a copy of it as well :-).
Prior to going to the exhibition we had all made a wee pilgramage to Kiwifruits and stocked up on some essential NZ items - including a multipack of Twisties, Rashuns and Cheezels. Which kicked off a debate on which item is the top snack of choice. My vote is always for Twisties although there was some dissension in the ranks on that. I think 2 year old Olivia had the best approach - eat them all happily while sharing them around (sometimes forcibly as she didn't seem to want to take no for an answer on the odd occasion!) with all of the adults - bless!
The exhibition is enormous - not over space, but just so many pictures, prints, photos crammed on all of the walls - it was hard to take them all in. We did find the print of Daphne - by Julian Opie - and we did all agree that it looked like her. If we'd had a spare £5,000 we could have bought a copy of it as well :-).
Prior to going to the exhibition we had all made a wee pilgramage to Kiwifruits and stocked up on some essential NZ items - including a multipack of Twisties, Rashuns and Cheezels. Which kicked off a debate on which item is the top snack of choice. My vote is always for Twisties although there was some dissension in the ranks on that. I think 2 year old Olivia had the best approach - eat them all happily while sharing them around (sometimes forcibly as she didn't seem to want to take no for an answer on the odd occasion!) with all of the adults - bless!
Sunday, August 05, 2007
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